Solution of Merchandising
Characteristics of textile Blended yarn & fabric
Cotton: soft, very absorbent, shrinks when washed easy to crease.
Ramie & Linen: Compared to cotton, not soft, less absorbent, shrinks when washed, but to a less extent, easy to crease.
Rayon: Compare to cotton, softer than cotton, equally absorbent, shrinks more than cotton, very easy to crease, has a luster like silk.
Polyester: Compared to cotton ,not soft, absorbent at all, does not shrink in normal wash not easy to crease.
Wool: The Characteristics vary dependent on the kind of wool it is, but it has these general Characteristics:
Compare to cotton, not very soft, not absorbent. The staple is slightly crispy which can lead to a bulky effect when finally made into a fabrics. It shrinks seriously when washed , in hot water. Not easy to crease.
Nylon: Can be soft or firm dependent on the finish applied, not absorbent, does not shrink when washed, not easy to crease, very strong.
Silk: Finer or softer than cotton, equally absorbent, shrinks more than cotton easy to crease, has a smooth surface with luster when it is made into fabric.
Acrylic: not soft, not absorbent, does not shrink in normal wash. The staple is slightly crimpy which can make the final product, the fabric, bulky, or beefy not easy to crease.
Polyester cotton blend: Still soft, absorbent, does not shrink , not easy to crease .
Classification of textile fabrics and their method of production
According to the fabric production method, textile fabrics are of three types:
1.Woven
2.Non-woven
3. Knit
Non woven:
a)Felt-------Blanket
b)Bond-------Carpet
c)Stitch-------Bale cover
According to dyeing & printing method, textile fabrics are of three types:
1.yarn dyed fabric
2.piece dyed fabric
3.prited fabrics
Woven fabric preparation winding:
a) Warp preparation: creel in warp in sizing drawing in dent in drafting in looming
b) Weft preparation: pirn.
i)Warping machine:
a) creel capacity 1000-2000
b)drum s.s- 2000m-2500m
c)width 50” 70”
d)oil pressure 3.5-4.5 P.S.I
ii)Sizing machine:
a) creel capacity 5-12 pcs
b) sizing box
c) Drying unit 6-12 cyl
d) Speed 1000-1500m P/M
e) Width adjustable as buyer desire (52”-70”)
iii)Fabric fault:
a)Starting mark
b)miss-pick
c)broken-pick
d)missing end
e)ends/inch variation
f)picks/inch variation
g)bar effect
h)fuzzy
i)reed mark
iv)Modern loom machine:
a)projectile/sulzer
b)Rapier
c)Air jet
d) water jet
v)Conventional loom:
a)Vertical or primitive
b)Pit loom
i)Through shuttle seaman fabric
ii)Fly shuttle absorbent fabric
c)Frame loom
d)Semi-automatic
e)power loom
i)automatic
ii)non-automatic
vi) Special loom:
a) Broad loom
b) Narrow loom
i)cut pile
ii)Non cut pile
vii)production calculation:
P.P.M x 60x 8x 3
=----------------------------
P.P.I x 36
vii) Loom production in Lbs:
a)Ends/pics-ct
b)picks/inch-ct
c)fabric width
d)Selvedge width
e)Selvedge warp density
f)Crimp %(4-10)
g)Wastage % .005
Fabrics That are used in garment sector:
In the ready made garment industry fabric is the main raw materials required to manufacture the garments. Garments are of various types, hence various types of fabrics are also needed in the garment industry to meet the requirements of garment manufacturers. Variation in fabrics may be by variation in
*Fabric composition
*Fabric construction (Ends& Picks)
*Fabric structure (weave design)
*Warp &weft yarn count
*Piece dyed
*Yarn dyed
*Stripe/ check
*Brushed
*Woven knitted non woven
*Finished treatment
Thousand of varieties of fabrics are available in the market to satisfy the garment manufacturers. Here is a list of some popular woven fabrics corrently being used in the ready made garments industries.
*poplin/ plain weave
*Basket weave
*Twill weave
*Dobby weave
*Jacquard weave
*Checks and plaids weave
*Corduroy/pile surface weave
*stretch weave
*Rib weave
*Satin weave
*Net structure weave
List of some popular woven fabrics:
Here is a list of popular woven fabrics currently being used in the garment industry in our country.
(A) 100% cotton, solid, colors
Grey fabrics should be available in the market.
Construction | Yarn size | Type of weave | Name of fabric |
60 x60 | 20sx20s | poplin | sheeting |
68 x68 | 30sx30s | poplin | sheeting |
58 x58 | 16sx16s | poplin | calico |
58 x64 | 14sx14s | poplin | calico |
60 x62 | 14sx14s | poplin | calico |
133 x72 | 40sx40s | poplin | poplin |
40 x42 | 20sx10s | poplin | Flannel |
42 x44 | 24sx13s | poplin | Flannel |
108 x58 | 21sx21s | poplin | twill |
108 x56 | 16sx12s | 3x1 twill | twill |
96 x48 | 16sx12s | 3x1 twill | twill |
128 x60 | 20sx16s | 3x1 twill | twill |
74 x44 | 10sx10s | 3x1 twill | twill |
72 x42 | 7sx7s | 3x1 twill | 13.5 oz twill |
72 x42 | 7sx6s | 3x1 twill | 14 oz twill |
80 x46 | 10sx7s | 3x1 twill | 12 oz twill |
96 x64 | 24sx24s | 3x1 twill | twill |
86 x34 | 12sx8s | poplin | canvas |
70 x42 | 10sx10s | poplin | canvas |
(B)100% Cotton Denim/ chambray
Construction | Yarn size | Type of weave | Name of fabric |
80x50 | 10sx10s | 3x1 twill | 10 oz denim |
80x46 | 10sx7s | 3x1 twill | 12oz denim |
72x42 | 7sx7s | 3x1 twill | 13.5 oz denim |
72x42 | 7sx6s | 3x1 twill | 14 oz denim |
80x46 | 20sx16s | 2x1 twill | 6 oz denim |
64x54 | 21sx21s | 1x1 poplin | chambray |
(C)65% polyester 35% cotton, solid colors
Grey fabrics are usually available
Construction | Yarn size | Type of weave | Name of fabric |
110x76 | 45sx45s | poplin | poplin |
96x72 | 45sx45s | poplin | poplin |
136x72 | 45sx45s | poplin | poplin |
88x64 | 45sx45s | poplin | poplin |
58x64 | 14sx14s | poplin | calico |
58x64 | 16sx16s | poplin | calico |
58x64 | 17sx17s | poplin | calico |
120x60 | 20sx16s | 3x1twill | twill |
108x58 | 21sx21s | 3x1twill | twill |
101x55 | 45sx11s | poplin | oxford |
(D)100% Cotton yarn dyed
Construction | Yarn size | Type of weave | Name of fabric |
64x54 | 21x21s | 2x2 twill | Flannel |
64x54 | 21sx21s | poplin | Checks or stripes |
60x60 | 21sx21s | poplin | Checks or stripes |
(E)65% polyester and 35% cotton yarn dyed
Construction | Yarn size | Type of weave | Name of fabric |
100x70 | 45sx45s | poplin | Gingham |
90x60 | 45sx45s | poplin | Gingham |
80x70 | 45sx45s | poplin | Gingham |
List of some knit fabrics
1.Plain /single/ jersey knit:
People call it jersey knit. A weft process producing a plain, flat- surfaced knitted fabric formed with a distinct face and back. A single faced knitted fabric formed by an intermeshing of stitches in the same direction on the face and a series of semicircular loops produce on the reverse or black. Even- patterned loops or wales are produced in the lengthwise direction on the face of the fabric and even patterned., wavy loops in the crosswise direction on the reverse. Jersey knit process utilizes both single and double yarn construction.
2.Pique knit/ La-coste knit.
3.Rib knit:
A weft knit process producing a double faced fabric. Rib knit is made with two sets of needles producing alternate plain and purl stitches that interlock or intermesh in opposite direction in the length wise direction and produce distinct vertical ribs on both sides of the fabric. Rib knit process produces high and low areas with stitches alternating up and aver and down and under creating a corrugated effect. There are 1 by 1 rib, 2 by 1 rib, 2 by 2 rib, 3 by 1 rib, 3 by 2 rib----------- and so on.
4. Interlock Stitch knit:
A weft knit process producing a compound fabric. Two separate 1x 1 rib fabrics are interlocked or inter knitted to form one cloth, and are characterized by fine ribs in the lengthwise direction on the both sides of the goods. The two rib courses are defined as one interlock course, since together they produce one stitch in every wale.
5.Terry knit:
A woven and knit uncut loop structure produced as single faced with loop formation on face and black. Size, shape and density of loop formation may vary. They look like terry towel.
6. Fleece knit:
One side looks like jersey, the other side heavily brushed. Please note when knitted fabrics are finished by the mill, it is usually roller on a tube with tension.
7. Jacquard knit:
Jacquard knit is a system of producing a patterned knit fabric incorporating the jacquard system. The system is the individual control of the selection or inhibition of the needles to produce the design or pattern utilizing
· Punch cards or programmed techniques similar to woven jacquard fabric
· Electronic or electromagnetic device
· May be produce by warp or weft type method of knitting fabric.
· Designed with a flat or raised surface.
8. Yarn dyed stripe fabric:
In making color knitted fabrics, we usually would use the following methods to color item:
Piece dye : for solid color
*Yarn dye : for horizontal stripes.
*Printing : for printed designs.
9.)Feeder stripe knit:
This means you feed the knitting machine with yarn of different colors and let the machine knit as if knitting solid color fabrics .
The knitting machine has a capacity for 108 cones of yarn. Now you have inserted 8 cones of black yarn in to it, with the balance 100 cones white yarn. When knitting starts you will see within the 2” repeat there is a black horizontal stripe.
10. Engineered stripe knit:
When the size of the repeat of the stripe you need is bigger than 2” it is beyond what the feeder stripe method can do and you will have to use “ Engineered stripe” method to make this knitted fabric. In this engineered stripe method, the machine is set to change threads at certain time to from a big repeat. This way the repeat can be of almost any size. However , the price of engineered stripe fabric is substantially higher. Therefore, as garment merchandisers, when we are given a piece of artwork showing, for example, a 2-3/4” repeat, we should check with the knitting mill to find out how close we can get the repeat to 2-3/4”, or check with the buyer if he would let you shrink it down from 2-3/4” to 2-1/2” before you resort to engineered stripe method.
Machines that are used for knit fabric production
There are following two types of knitting machines are used to produced knit fabric:
a)Flat bed knitting machine
b)Circular / tubular type knitting machine.
A) Flat bed knitting machine:
A flat formed fabric or yard goods with straight edges or sides produced on a flat bed machine. We call it flat knit as opposed to circular knit that 1 to 7 above are. We usually use flat knit for collar, cuff, and bottom of knit shirt, or sometimes jackets too.When we use flat knit collar, cuff, and bottom, we usually would knit them to the exact size we need as they should not be cut for size adjustment.
B) Circular /Tubular knitting machine:
A Circular /Tubular fabric produced on a circular type knitting machine with the loop stitch formation process made around the fabric, Needles on the knitting machine are arranged in a circle, producing fabric in tubular form. Goods may be produces as tubular yard goods or circular shaped components or trimmings , Most knitting fabrics are of circular knit which means before it is cut open, the circumference is about 60” like 30” is on.
Calculation the weight of knitting fabrics:
In the woven fabric, we judge the weight by the ounce per square yard. We know 4 oz per square yard is a light weight shirting fabric., 14 oz is a heavy fabric for jackets or pants. In knitted fabric we go by gram per square meter. 160 gram per square meter is a light weight fabric, 360 gram is a heavy fabric.
In knitted fabrics, the mills always make their sales by weight (by kg or pound) because knitted fabrics are difficult to measure by length due to their stretch ability .Therefore, to avoid arguments we buy by weight. As garments manufacturers, or merchandisers, for production of a order , we may not know how many kgs of fabric we need, but according to the marker we may know how many yds of fabric we need. Following are two methods you can use to determine how many kgs or pounds of knitted fabric you should purchase for one dz of garment:
(A) If the garment you intend to make consist of quite a few cut pieces and sewn together, chances are the wastage will be normal which means 10% to 15%.So you can weight the sample garment and order the knitted fabric of 115% of the garment weight, and you will not be off too much.
(B) If you already have the marker drawn and that you know the consumption of fabric by yard you can convert the yardage to weight by using the following formula:
For Instance:
If the fabric you use is 360gram per linear yard( meaning 36”x 60” is 360 gram) Now you would like to know what the weight is in pound or ounce per linear yard:
0.360 kg x 2.2046=0.79 lbs per linear yard
16 oz x 0.79=12.64 oz per linear yard
or if you wish to know the weight per square yard, then you can do the following:
12.64 oz divided by 60x36=7.58 oz per square yard.
Following are some conversion formulas which you may need in your calculation of consumption based on information you are given:
A. From weight per linear yard to weight per square meter.
For instance:
on 360gram per linear yard( meaning 36”x 60” What is the weight per square meter?
360 gram x 39.3” x39.3” divided 36” divided 60”= 257.42 gram per square meter.
B .From weight per square meter to weight per linear yard of 60” width.
For instance:
On 257.42 gram per square meter fabric (100 cmx100 cm) what is the weight per linear yard (60” width)
257.42 gram divided by 39.3 divided 39.3 x 36” x60”=360 gram per linear yard of 60” width
C. If the weight of the fabric is 360 gram per linear yard , how many linear yard are there in 1 kg.
1000 gm ( 1 kg ) divided 360 gram =2.78 linear yards per kg
If the weight of the fabric is 400 gram per linear yard , how many yards are there in kg:
1000 gm (1 kg) divided 400 gm =2.5 yard per kg.
Method to distinguish sweaters from knit shirt:
Sweater are knitted garments and fine gauge knit shirts like T- shirts sre also knitted Garments., but according to the U. S quota system , they belong to different quota categories as follows:
Cotton or CVC: Sweater quota category no knit shirt quota category no
Men’s & Boys 345 338
Ladies & Girls 346 339
Acrylic or TC: Sweater quota category no knit shirt quota category no
Men’s & Boys 645 638 Ladies & Girls 646 646
Ramie or Ramie /cotton:
Men’s & Boys 845 838
Ladies & Girls 846 838
Wool or chief value Wool:
Men’s & Boys 445 438
Ladies & Girls 446 439
The following is how we differentiate sweaters from knit shirts according to the Harmonized system of the U. S customs:
In one CM ( centimeter) measured horizontally and vertically I the knitted fabric has more then 4.5 stitches , the garments is consider a knit shirt, not a sweater however, if it is less than 4.5 stitches in one CM in the fabric, the garment is considered a sweater not a knit shirt, and you should use sweater quota to cover the shipment.
3gauge=1.18 stitches to a CM
5gauge=1.97 stitches to a CM
7gauge=2.76 stitches to a CM These are sweaters
9gauge=3.54 stitches to a CM
*4.5stitches to a CM is the dividing line
12gauge=4.73 stitches to a CM
14 gauge= 5.51 stitches to a CM
18gauge=7.09 stitches to a CM These are knit shirts
24gauge=9.45 stitches to a CM
28gauge=11.03 stitches to a CM
The calculation is very simple, just divide the number of gauge into 2.54(1 inch=2.54cm) you will get the number of stitches per CM.
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